Archive for Techniques in Other Media

Inkle Weaving – A Blast From the Past

 

Samples of Inkle Weaving

Samples of Inkle Weaving

Nancy Smeltzer, MFA In the late 60s and early 70s, there was a big move on to return to traditional textile techniques, as many of the people who knew how to do them had died, or their companies had moved overseas. While getting my portfolio together to go to The Maryland Institute of Art for my MFA, I learned crochet, macrame, and many other techniques that had been laid to the side for more modern objects and materials. One of these techniques was inkle weaving. On the left are some pretty simple versions that I made. If you Google inkle weaving, and look at the “images” section, there are many more complicated examples than mine. I got bored rather quickly with the process, since you had to manually make the “shed” or the place where the shuttle with the thread/yarn on it would be passed. To make that shed. the loom that I was using had a flat wooden piece with a notched edge to it, and that allowed a little more ease in picking up the warp or vertical threads that I wanted. You then turned the flat edge on it’s side, and that made enough room to pass the shuttle through with the color for that row.

Inkle Loom

Inkle Loom

The loom that I used was a simple table top one, although there are ones that are made that are floor models if you want to make a lot of the same pattern. This table model allowed me to make lengths about 3 feet (9 m). The above samples are about 1″ (2.5cm) wide, but I could have made them wider if I had wanted to do so. I wanted to hurry and learn as many patterns as I could, and in keeping with the times, used rustic materials such as butcher and other forms of twine. Since inkle weavings are often used as guitar straps, belts, and other forms of narrow textiles, the scratchy twine would not have been very comfortable, especially going around your neck. However, this was the time when we were “being real and true to our roots”, not that a country girl from North Carolina would have had any relatives that I knew of that had done such work. It was fun learning about folk traditions, especially through classes at the Smithsonian, such as learning to crochet with your fingers. This apparently was one early way that man learned to make fabric until someone realized that a stick or bone with a notch at the end would make things go a lot faster. My simple inkle loom would have been quite a step up in technology from the primitive finger crocheting. As I was cleaning out my studio to move, it was hard to give up the several looms that I had collected over the years from art teachers who didn’t know how to use them, and weren’t very interested in learning, since you would need one loom/child in each class. My looms ended up going to a friend who is starting a weaving studio, so I know that they’ll have a good home and traditions will be passed on.

What are some textile traditions that you have in your family? My grandmother used to crochet white edges around wash cloths. 

Why not leave a comment as to your thoughts on this posting. Please take a minute, fill out the form below or by clicking on the “comments/no comments link” at the top of the posting, and then share your ideas with the rest of us. We all grow when we share our thoughts and impressions, so why not join our growing community of those who appreciate art quilts and textile arts. We’d love to hear from you!… and PLEASE tell like minded souls about this blog! The more readers and contributors, the more I write because encouragement helps the words flow! You can see more of my art work on my web site at www.fiberfantasies.com (be patient as it loads; it’s worth it), my spiritual healing work at www.transitionportals.com and can find me on Google + , Facebook (for Transition Portals) Facebook (for Fiber Fantasies),  and Twitter. To find out how to buy my art work, please check out “How to Buy my Art Work” in the “Pages” section to the right of this blog.

Wearable Art – Adding on to Make it Work!

Sequined Butterfly Top with AdditionsNancy Smeltzer, MFA

Back in the 80s, sequins for evening wear were all the rage and I fell in love with this commercially made butterfly top. The piece had been handmade in India, and worked from underneath, using a tambour stitch to secure the sequins. It was worn to many black tie events, including a fewcruises. (Ah-h-h! Another lifetime!) The trouble was that as I grew older and heavier, if I lifted my arms, the “V” shape at the very bottom of the piece revealed my bare belly. So, rather than donate the piece to charity, I decided to add on to it, allow it to evolve as any butterfly would, and make it my piece of own wearable art.

Center front fill-in medallionHere is a detail shot of the center medallion that I used in the front and the back of the above mentioned “V” to “fill in the space” I needed.  I used a gold brocade fabric for the center of the piece, and pink and black bugle beads to make a band around the center that radiated out like a star. Gold metal beads were added for their shine. A similar medallion was placed in the corresponding “V” on the back of the top so that my front and back were covered discreetly. After all, these were classy affairs!

Detail of Butterfly wing tipHowever, the sides had the same baring problem when I raised my arms. There was that offending gap. (I hate it when clothes “shrink” like that on me!). Swallow tail butterflies, with the long lobes at the tips of their bottom wings are all over the place in my gardens in the Summer. Perfect, I thought, I’ll just add some really long lobes to make sure that this piece will be wearable for quite a while. I added strips of black and gold ribbon alternating with black satin. Two “shields” of black velveteen made the spots that are on often on the real butterflies. Scattered all over were some more of the pink bugle beads and gold metal beads. Instead of adding dress weights into the lining to get the panels to hang straight, I added some of my beloved buttons for the added weight. (The link has an interesting article on how the Queen of England solves the problem). The panels even give an interesting “swoosh, swoosh” sound when I walk, which makes me smile as if I were flying,

A few posts back, I wrote about chokers that I’ve made. The photo of the black one that shows up was made to be worn with this top. I also made a long black lace stole to drape over my arms and felt quite elegant when I went to parties. I love making things that are different, and wouldn’t be seen anywhere else, and always got a lot of compliments when I wore this outift. Alas, it’s gone out of style, but there have been a few Mardi Gras parties where it worked. Who knows what the future will bring for this top? If I wait much longer it will become an antique, but then I’, fast approaching that status, too!

What have you ever added to a piece of commercially made clothing to make it special? How did it make you feel when you wore it?

Why not leave a comment as to your thoughts on this posting. Please take a minute, fill out the form below or by clicking on the “comments/no comments link” at the top of the posting, and then share your ideas with the rest of us. We all grow when we share our thoughts and impressions, so why not join our growing community of those who appreciate art quilts and textile arts. We’d love to hear from you!… and PLEASE tell like minded souls about this blog! The more readers and contributors, the more I write because encouragement helps the words flow!

You can see more of my art work on my web site at www.fiberfantasies.com (be patient as it loads; it’s worth it), my spiritual healing work at www.transitionportals.com and can find me on Google + , Facebook (for Transition Portals) Facebook (for Fiber Fantasies),  and Twitter.

To find out how to buy my art work, please check out “How to Buy my Art Work” in the “Pages” section to the right of this blog.